Must-Have Tools | Bradley Restoration

The "Alien Grabber"

Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:20:34 -0700

Also called a “pick-up tool” or something along those lines. Great for grabbing that nut that made a run for freedom down into an impossible-to-reach crevice, or for fishing a clevis pin into pedal linkages, and heck, lots of stuff. Push the button and the little alien grabber fingers pop out. A real bargain at around $3 most anywhere that sells tools.

Wiring Diagram

Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:18:13 -0700

I think it is a bit excessive to carry a full repair manual around at all times, though I know many people who do.

I do think that having a wiring diagram handy is a good idea and they take up virtually no room at all. They are invaluable for the emergency "roadside tech session".

I like to enlarge one to a size that is easy to read, and then have it laminated at the local office supply or copy store. No reason to have more than one, just make sure you have the one applicable to your model year. If you have made any changes, mark them on the diagram before laminating. Don't forget to also copy that page that has the color codes and component codes, if they are not directly on the diagram. Many later manuals have one page of codes for the entire section on diagrams.

With a bit of cut and paste, you can usually put all of the pertinent information on a second sheet of paper and simply laminate it to the back of the diagram. If that does not appeal to you, do your best to note the information in fine-tipped pen on the front of your stock diagram.

You can find diagrams in the back of your manual, download them from the web, or even buy them pre-laminated.

Multi-Meter

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:02:14 -0700

In a pinch, one can get by with test lamps and bits of wire, but with modern technology there really is no reason to do so. An imported multi-meter that tests for voltage and continuity can be had for $10-15. They are cheap enough to toss one into every toolkit you own. (Remember to check the batteries before heading out on a road trip.) A shop-quality tester with voltage, dwell, amperage, temperature, resistance and continuity can be had starting around $50. A professional one that can really take a beating will cost upwards of $300. My FLuke 78 has been dropped, shoved into tool bags and even rained on for over 15 years.

Use them to find wiring faults, test gages, set static distributor timing, test charging systems and batteries. If I had to choose between a good test lamp and a really crappy multimeter, I’d take the meter anytime

Here is a selection of the things a good multimeter can do.

On the left, an inductive amperage clamp will read current flow without interrupting the circuit. This is great for finding that elusive battery drain. (Its probably the radio anyway...) Most meters will read a small current, but only if the leads are in series with the load. This entails interrupting the wiring and only works for very small loads. Anything more than a few amps and the meter's internal fuse will blow. The inductive clamp allows much higher readings without damage to the meter and without disconnecting wires.

Next, a tach adapter. Clip this over a spark plug wire, and you have an accurate tachometer. You can use it to watch engine speed while fiddling in the engine area and can't see the dash, or for checking the calibration on the in-dash tach. Handy, and not very expensive.

On the right, a K-type thermocouple. This particular probe has a "bead" contact. Touch it to a surface, the meter displays the temperature. Check the temperature of thermostat housings, cylinder heads, radiator cores, heater ducts, coolant, etc. My meter displays temperature directly via the thermocouple's plug. If your meter does not have a temperature setting, you can buy a thermocouple adapter that will take a thermocouple signal and generate a voltage that the meter can then display.

On top we have a selection of leads and probes. The black lead has an "alligator" action, opening and closing via the syringe-like grip. It has a large grip range and will stay where you put it. I usually clip to to a good ground. The red lead has a regular solid probe tip. Poke around and see what happens! Above is a "piercing probe" which allows almost non-invasive testing in the middle of a wire run. The lead plugs into the side of the probe handle. The end of the probe has a wedge-like tip for snaking into wire bundles. Once the desired wire is found, the knob on the end is pressed and the hook-like jaw will grab the wire. Releasing the knob will allow a thin needle to pierce the insulation and touch the conductor inside. Once the reading is taken, the wire is released and no damage is done, save for an almost microscopic hole in the insulation.

GearWrenches

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:45:02 -0700

A new breed of ratcheting wrenches came onto the market several years ago and have since revolutionized my toolbox. As opposed to the older ratcheting wrenches that were made up of sheets of steel riveted together, and were primitive at best, these look more like high-quality hand wrenches. There are two kinds.

The original GearWrench type has a straight head and ratchets in only one direction. You flip the wrench over to change directions. I really like the slim feel of the original.

The other variety, sold under many tool brands, has a reversible ratchet mechanism with a pawl lever, and an angled head, as on a standard combination wrench. I have a set of these by Blue Point, Snap-On's import brand. Sometimes the angled head is just what you need.

Sears is selling a version under their Craftsman brand that looks an awful lot like my Blue Point wrenches, but has a ridge on the upper edge of the driving ring so that the fastener cannot slip through the tool. This is rather neat, except where you are in a cramped location and want to run the wrench "backwards" for handle clearance, with the direction pawl facing the work. No-can-do with the Craftsman version. You win some, you lose some.

I use both kinds for different applications and honestly cannot recommend one over the other. Notice that the straight ones have smaller heads and can get into tighter places, but the lack of offset is sometimes rough on the knuckles. The offset ones give a bit more handle clearance, but the larger head might not fit into tight spots. In most cases, either one will get the job done.

A perfect example for Gearwrench application is the removal of an MGB windscreen from behind padded dashboards. If you try to go in there with a ratchet and socket, you simply cannot fit the tool in there, requiring removal of the entire dash. You can get at the fasteners with an open-end, but you will be at it for what seems like hours. A GearWrench can get in there and, 9 times out of 10, remove the four bolts from the windscreen post without leaving a mark on the dash. Of course, there is that 10th dash that just won't clear, but that's just the kind of thing that makes our LBCs that much more endearing, isn't it?

Timing Light

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:40:39 -0700

When asked to troubleshoot a tuning problem, probably the first thing I will ask is “Where is your timing set?” Without a timing light, you just don’t know for sure. The cheap in-line ones use spark voltage to fire a bulb, and are not particularly useful, though I suppose they are better than nothing. I would recommend one that has a pair of alligator clips for 12v power and an inductive clamp to clip over a plug wire to trigger the light. The best ones,called “dial-back-to-zero” timing lights or just "dial-backs", also have a knob on the back of the unit. Since most engines do not have timing marks at every degree, these lamps have a circuit that allows you to “dial back” the flashing light until the mark on the crank lines up with the the TDC pointer on the engine. Accurate timing readings are then read off of the dial to the exact degree.

"Wobbly" Extensions

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:12:35 -0700

These are like regular socket wrench extensions, except the square drive ends are slightly egg-shaped and let you get onto fasteners anywhere from straight-on to about 15 degrees off. Easily in the running for “Best thing since sliced bread”. Get a selection of them in different lengths.

If you can’t afford a full set, at least get a short one like the one on the right. You can stick it onto a regular extension, and it might save your bacon.

Snap-On has a newer style that may (or may not) appeal to you. In the second from the left, you can see that there is a wobbly section, as well as a straight extension. The wobbly part will push through the socket and engage the straight section, if you so desire. I have a couple of each.

U-Joint Sockets

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:59:54 -0700

There are certain fasteners that, for the life of me, I can’t figure out how the factory installed in any kind of timely fashion. Some that come to mind are the two bolts holding the heater valve to the block on an MGB. Luckily, there are special tools that make the job a snap. A U-joint socket is simply a socket, with a built-in universal joint.. They are superior to a socket-and-U-joint combination because they are extremely compact. I have a pair of then, both made by Snap-On, in ¼”drive, a 7/16” and a 1/2”. The small one is useful for lots of things besides the heater valve, since there are so many ¼” bolts on our LBCs. The ½” one is perfect for speeding up the removal and installation of driveshaft bolts and transmission mount bolts. It is also great for sneaking past the radiator to remove the rear bolt on B steering racks, without removing the radiator. They may not be the most-used tool I own, but it sure does make me happy when I get to use them, and I think about how annoying those little jobs used to be.

I recently added the 1/2"-drive 3/4" socket for removing MGB sub-frame nuts, right through the access hole. It goes on a 6" extension with my big, scary, 1/2" impact driver and really gets the job done, even on those where the post is slightly loose. With a manual rig, the assembly will just spin and spin, requiring a helper to hold things up top, or jamming a wrench on the upper nut and hoping it will stay while you crawl back underneath. The impact rig will take the nut off, overcoming the inertia of the nut while leaving the post bolt to rattle in place. Nice.

SynchroMeter

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:46:42 -0700

As opposed to the traditional “Uni-Syn” carb synchronizer or the arcane practice of sticking a tube in your ear and “listening to the whistle”, this is the best way to synchronize multiple carbs. A Uni-Syn acts as a second venturi in front of the carb, creating a vacuum which lifts a little plastic bead up a clear plastic tube, it offers a comparative reference only. A Synchrometer is an actual air flow gauge that gives a reading in kilograms per hour. They cause virtually no restriction and do not interfere with the operation of the carb. They are the only way to synchronize multiple Webers, since any airflow restriction will drastically change the Weber’s behavior. They are also immanently suitable for SUs as well. While a Uni-Syn requires you to rev the engine periodically to “clean out” between adjustments, this is not the case with a synchrometer, since it does not interfere with the operation of the carbs. Various fittings are available to adapt it to different carbs, such as Weber DGVs and small-throated SUs, or elbows to clear tight installations. (I'm looking at you, MG TF!)

Stud Removal Sockets

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:42:29 -0700

You might not really need these, but they sure come in handy if you have them. These little gizmos use a set of camming rods to grab a stud to install or remove it, without destroying the threads. They work much faster than “double-nutting” and provide much more torque. A 5/16” one is the most useful, though one for 3/8” comes in handy for head studs. You might add a 10mm for T-Types, also.

Tie Rod Separator

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:38:52 -0700

The only way to separate tie rod ends on your steering rack form the steering arms without buggering the boots or the ends themselves. Simply slide the fork under the joint and tighten the drive bolt with a wrench or socket. The joint will pop apart. Much more satisfactory than beating them apart with a “pickle fork”.

Cotter Pin Hook

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:17:19 -0700

This invaluable device is designed for pulling cotter pins, but it is also excellent for general poking and scraping. You can pull on it, pry on it, push on it, twist it. The thing is downright useful. Probably the most-reached-for oddball tool I own. Everyone should have one.

Sealants and other Chemistry

Thu, 19 Jul 2007 22:49:14 -0700

Engine sealing chemistry has come a long way since the simple days of shellac and Permatex #2. Here are a few of the modern products that I use regularly, and why.

Must-Have Tools | Bradley Restoration

The "Alien Grabber"

Wiring Diagram

Multi-Meter

GearWrenches

Timing Light

"Wobbly" Extensions

U-Joint Sockets

SynchroMeter

Stud Removal Sockets

Tie Rod Separator

Cotter Pin Hook

Sealants and other Chemistry

RTV Silicone in a Pressure Can

Copper Spray-A-Gasket

Hylomar

Anti-Seize Compound

Loc-Tite

Kroil

Gasket Eliminator